Saturday, February 15, 2020

Pinoy in Taiwan - Back in Taipei for an enjoyable visit

Taipei - Ximending Taipei sign bwI was back in Taipei with my mom and sister to celebrate my mom's birthday. Though I had been to Taipei before, this trip was even more enjoyable than the first time. We even had time to see Jiufen in this trip.

Let me take you on a virtual tour of the sites and landmarks in the city.


We stayed in the Ximen or Ximending district of Taipei. We also stayed here when Mijo and I visited Taipei for the first time in 2010 and we liked the location and it being central to a lot of things including the Ximen train station.
Taipei - Ximending intersection sign


This neighborhood has changed and it has become trendier judging by the hip shops and cafes dotting this now vibrant shopping district.
Taipei - Ximending shopping daytime

One of the tourist attractions in the area is the Red House theater. It used to be a market place but it is now used to promote culture and creative activities.
Taipei - Ximending Red house

The neighborhood is also home to this iconic and Instagram worthy  street art. I had to go take this picture early in the morning when the crowd was thin.
Taipei - Ximending Taipei sign

Had I waited long enough, the crowd would have gotten thicker especially when the stores start opening their doors.
Taipei - Ximending crowd

After the sun sets, the district is inundated with the young, beautiful and the hip to shop, eat or just to walk around.
Taipei - Ximending shopping nighttime crowd

This is also where the Ximen night market comes alive.
Taipei - Ximending shopping nighttime

While I had stayed in Ximending district during my first trip to Taipei over ten years ago, I had not been to the Ximen night market. It must be a new addition to the neighborhood? In any case, I am glad that there is now a night market in this area.
Taipei - Ximending night market fried food

Just like in any night markets, they sell lots of things there - food, drinks, clothes, accessories, housewares, etc. This night market covers several blocks and not situated like a long straight line just like Shilin. You have to criss cross and turn left and right to see all the stores and food carts available.
Taipei - Ximending night market shops

Of course, a stinky tofu food cart is part of the mix. My mom, sis and I did not try this particular stinky tofu. Though my mom was game to sample it. I love her!
Taipei - Ximending night market stinky tofu

Covid made the news for the first time when we were in Taipei and it was not a big deal yet because it was local to Wuhan at that time. Nevertheless, there were people already wearing masks in the crowd.
Taipei - Ximending night market

My mom, sis and I tried this tasty onion pie by Yilan. I don't remember the location of this particular food cart and I think the carts move around anyway in the duration of the night market. The good thing about traveling with my mom and sis is that we got to share the food among the three of us. This meant we had more room to sample more food. The best part was my sis and mom love to sample food as much as I do.
Taipei - Ximending night market yilan onion pie

I think the base is similar to other Taiwanese or Shanghainese pancakes I've had where the dough is savory and has onions or scallions. These are served as cakes instead and smothered with hoisin or oyster sauce.
Taipei - Ximending night market yilan onion pie pies

We did find the stinky tofu to sample. The smell was scary but the first bite took all my fears aways.
Taipei - Ximending night market stinky tofu tofu cart Taipei - Ximending night market stinky tofu tofu

We also found this sweet potato ball cart for our dessert.
Taipei - Ximending night market sweet potato ball cart Taipei - Ximending night market sweet potato ball

We washed down all our savory food samples with a sweet milk tea. We found Xing Fu Tang to be our favorite in this trip. The city is dotted with Xing Fu Tangs. We found several XFT at the Ximen night market. You could tell XFT milk teas are good judging by the long lines in front of their stores.
Taipei - Ximending night market xing fu tang

The aroma of brown sugar, tapioca and other ingredients fill the air near their stores as if it is an invitation to go and sample a milk tea.
Taipei - Ximending night market xing fu tang brown sugar

I really enjoyed their milk teas. The ingredients seem simple but the combination of flavors is simply amazing!
Taipei - Ximending night market xing fu tang teas

Here's another location of Xing Fu Tang which can also be found at the Ximen night market. The long queue at that time of the night!
Taipei - Ximending night market line

The following morning, the street was empty and quiet like nothing happened the night before. There were a few food carts that remained but they are serving Xiao Long Bao (XLB), pork buns, and other dishes that are eaten in the morning in Taipei.  I could see a few tourists snapping pictures of the area and people buying breakfasts.
Taipei - Ximending street morning

I tried the pork XLB. One order included eight pieces of XLB which is perfect for sharing with my mom and sis.
Taipei - Ximending food market breakfast xlb

I also bought one order of pork bun.
Taipei - Ximending food market pork bun

Here's what my morning food haul looked like that morning. They were all tasty and quite delicious.
Taipei - Ximending food market breakfast

We pre-booked a city tour and we were picked up from our hotel right after our breakfast. The first site in our tour is a photo op at the North Gate.
Taipei - North Gate back

We were told that there was once a wall that surrounded the old city and this gate was part of that wall in the 1800s during the Qing dynasty. There are others like this in Taipei but this particular is the only one that retained its style.
Taipei - North Gate front

Even the door shows the tests of time.
Taipei - North Gate door

    Our next destination was a beautiful memorial dedicated to Taiwan's former President Chiang Kai Shek called the Chiang Kai Shek Memorial.
Taipei - Chiang Kai Shek Memorial gate

We were taking the tour on the eve of Chinese New Year and unfortunately, the memorial was closed that day. We could only walk around the premises of the complex but not inside the hall.
Taipei - Chiang Kai Shek Memorial gate view

It looks like we came in through the side gate. We were told that stairs have eighty nine steps which is the age of Chiang Kai Shek when he died.
Taipei - Chiang Kai Shek Memorial hall stairs
 
The surrounding landscaping and foliage are a good refuge from the hustle and bustle of the city. There were joggers and walkers in the complex.
Taipei - Chiang Kai Shek Memorial hall view

Here's what the front of the memorial looks like.
Taipei - Chiang Kai Shek Memorial hall

Here's what's inside the hall. I took this black and white picture during my trip to Taipei ten years ago with Mijo.
IMG_0201b

 Our next destination was the Xingtian Temple. We were told that the temple is dedicated to the god of business folks Guan Yu.
Taipei - Xingtian temple

We were told that the temple is a center of a set of beliefs combining the elements of Buddhism, Confucianism and Daoism. It is located Zhongshan district of the city but they have other Xingtian temples located in Taipei.
Taipei - Xingtian temple devotees

Even though there were a lot of devotees inside the temple the day we visited, it felt peaceful and relaxing being there with them.
Taipei - Xingtian temple lanterns

Since we were in the area, our tour guide did a drive by with a photo op at the Grand Hotel. The hotel was built in 1952 but underwent several renovations and expansions to its present day size. We were told that Nonoy Aquino, Bill Clinton and other famous people had stayed there before.
Taipei - Grand Hotel


Another landmark in the Zhongshan district is the Martyrs' Shrine. This site is dedicated to the Taiwanese people who died during the wars of the 20th century including the war Xinhai Revolution which overthrew the China's last dynasty and created Taiwan or Republic of China.
Taipei - Martyrs' Shrine looking toward shrine

The complex is big and it consists of a main gate, an area for parades or marches, another gate which serves as a portal to the shrine, a terrace with reliefs and the shrine itself. I was impressed with how the entire place looks new.
Taipei - Martyrs' Shrine doors

Here is the relief of the Guangzhou Uprising. This was going to be the 10th uprising in Guangzhou but it was thwarted. Even though the uprising failed, it led to a trend of nationwide revolts which ended the Qing government's regime and the birth of the Republic of China.
Taipei - Martyrs' Shrine Guangzhou uprising

On the opposite side wall, is the relief of the Battle of Shanghai.
Taipei - Martyrs' Shrine Battle of Shanghai 

Here are the massive doors of the portal to the shrine. Red and gold are the dominant colors here.
Taipei - Martyrs' Shrine red doors

Here is the shrine.
Taipei - Martyrs' Shrine shrine

Here is the view of the gate from the shrine. The brown lines on the floor are markings from the sole of the guards from years of marching from the shrine to the gate and back. There is a changing of the guard every hour but we did not see that because of timing issues.
Taipei - Martyrs' Shrine looking toward gate

Our next destination was the National Palace Museum. There are two locations and this is the Northern branch. Mijo and I have been there before but we were in and out of the museum because we went there as part of a tour. My mom, sis and I visited as part of a tour so it was again an in and out sort of thing. I think this museum deserves a couple of days visit as the museum houses massive number of items from the Qing dynasty.
Taipei - National Palace Museum

We went to see their exhibition at the time called A Garland of Treasures. The exhibition featured small precious craft from the Qing Dynasty. The pieces below are hairpins, collar and head bands made from pearls and precious stones.
Taipei - National Palace Museum Garland of Treasures hairpins Taipei - National Palace Museum Garland of Treasures bands dong

Since we were being whisked from one section of the museum to another, I was not sure if I was looking at an item from the exhibit or from the museum's permanent collection. One of my favorites is a painted pottery figure of Standing Lady from the Tang Dynasty. 
Taipei - National Palace Museum Garland of Treasures standing lady

Here is the back of the figurine.
Taipei - National Palace Museum Garland of Treasures standing lady back

Another one of my favorites is this concentric ivory balls.
Taipei - National Palace Museum Garland of Treasures ivory balls

Here is the ball upclose. The details and the design are awe inspiring. I was trying to imagine how this was made and for how long?
Taipei - National Palace Museum Garland of Treasures ivory balls details

Here is a carved coral in the image of the planetary deity Kuixing.
Taipei - National Palace Museum Garland of Treasures planter

Here is one of the vases in this section showcasing revolving porcelain vases.  A revolving porcelain vase consists of two vases - an inner and an outer vase.
Taipei - National Palace Museum Garland of Treasures revolving vases

I wanted to see the paintings but there was not enough time to linger at the museum. Because of the that, I decided to just send myself a postcard with one of the more famous paintings at the museum.
Taipei - National Palace Museum mailbox

Here is the view of the museum gate from the museum balcony.
Taipei - National Palace Museum looking towards gate

One evening, even though we were tired touring and site seeing around the city, we managed to conjure strength and will to go to the Shilin Night Market.  I had been to this night market before but I do not remember it being this crowded.
Taipei - Shilin Night Market

Our first food conquest was these delicious Xiao Long Bao by Taiwan Xiao Long Bao.
Taipei - Shilin Night Market Taiwan XLB

Here are the XLBs upclose. These were very filling which was a problem since we were going to continue with our food conquest.
Taipei - Shilin Night Market Taiwan XLB xlb

Our next food conquest was these sweet and tasty rice cakes by Champion Rice Cakes. The rice cakes were made on demand and served fresh from the rice steamers. We had to wait for a few minutes for our rice cakes.
Taipei - Shilin Night Market Champion rice cakes

The preparation seems like a lot of work for such a small thing. There were using several rice cake steamers at the time so their setup looked like an assembly line. It was mesmerizing to see. The wait was all worth it because they came out so delicous. The rice cakes came in three variation - sesame, peanut and coconut.
 Taipei - Shilin Night Market Champion rice cakes sesame Taipei - Shilin Night Market Champion rice cakes peanut Taipei - Shilin Night Market Champion rice cakes coconut

There were more food that I wanted to try but we got full right away.
Taipei - Shilin Night Market egg waffle Taipei - Shilin Night Market corn on cob

We found this milk tea place but the name is in Chinese so I won't be able to tell you.
Taipei - Shilin Night Market Noname milk tea

What I can tell you is that they serve this decadent Lava Pure Boba Double Milk. It was so good!
Taipei - Shilin Night Market Noname milk tea milktea

Sweet food galore but I had to say no to myself too many times.
Taipei - Shilin Night Market sweets

They sell lots of items at the night market. These pins are interesting. If you are in the market for one of a kind pins, they sell them at the night market.
Taipei - Shilin Night Market pins

This store called Good Logo sells stylish clothes at reasonable prices. Since I already ate a lot that evening, I didn't look cute and looked plump in all the clothes that I tried on.
Taipei - Shilin Night Market Good Logo

No visit to Taipei is complete without going up to the observation deck of the Taipei 101 building and see Taipei from above.
Taipei - Taipei 101

For a perspective, Taipei 101 is truly one of the tallest skyscrapers, not just in Asia, but in the world. Even San Francisco's iconic Transamerica Pyramid is tiny compared to Taipei 101.
Taipei - Taipei 101 skyscrapers

I have been up there before with Mijo but I don't remember seeing all these Instagram perfect displays before.
Taipei - Taipei 101 Welcome

One thing that has not changed is this amazing city view from the observation deck. I tried so hard to figure out where the Ximending district is located but with no luck.
Taipei - Taipei 101 view

My sis, mom and I were snacking on Big Tom's mango freeze while enjoying the city views.
Taipei - Taipei 101 Big Tom

Another Instagram worthy display is the Fumeancats.
Taipei - Taipei 101 Fumeancats

To stabilize the building during an earthquake or strong winds, they installed this damper on the very top of the building. I actually felt little movements while taking pictures in this area.
Taipei - Taipei 101 damper

There is a food court in the basement of the building but we did not eat there.
Taipei - Taipei 101 hawker center

We got around the city using the efficient and clean MRT
Taipei - MRT Ximen station

The MRT also goes all the way to the Taoyuan International Airport from the city center. There were trains every couple of minutes so the turnover is pretty fast. Passengers are not shoulder to shoulder even though lots of people use it.
Taipei - MRT Ximen platform

There are even antiquities on display like this water drain built in Qing dynasty that was unearthed during construction of the subway.

Taipei - MRT water drain Qing dynasty

I also enjoyed their playful and fun posters sending a reminder to passengers to give way and give space.
Taipei - MRT sign poster

The MRT crowd during a ride.
Taipei - MRT passengers

I especially enjoyed this specific mural.

Taipei - MRT art

Here's the mural upclose.
Taipei - MRT art detail

Another thing I would like to mention in this blog is the proliferation of snacks in Taipei and how unique some of them are.
Taipei - Family Mart snacks

Which one to choose?
Taipei - Family Mart more snacks

It was my first time sampling a bubble milk tea cake. If you like milk teas, you'll relate to the tast of this cake. It was truly tasty!
Taipei - Family Mart Milk Tea cake

This cream puff was also one of my favorites. They are quite addicting!
Taipei - Family Mart Cream Puff chocolate

Lots of different kinds of cold beverages.
Taipei - Family Mart beverages

There was one breakfast when we tried a KFC breakfast. They have unique offerings like this delicious congee and egg custard pie.
Taipei - KFC breakfast

Another favorite of mine was a lunch of fishball soup with a serving of sticky rice.
Taipei - Wonton Rice Noodles lunch

It is always fun to visit Taipei. Lots of things to do, to see and lots of unique food to sample. I hope to be able to visit again in the future. 

~rl

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